1978 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40

Sale price: $200,00 make an offer

Technical specifications

Manufacturer:Toyota
Model:Land Cruiser
Year:1978
Type:SUV
Fuel Type:Gasoline
Color:Blue
Mileage:33,640
Transmission:Manual
Interior Color:Gray
Engine:4230 cc inline 6
Trim:FJ40
Number of Cylinders:6
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Current customer rating: current rating for this car (5)
based on 3 votes

Description

1978….it was the year I graduated from college. The year I got married. And it was a good year for Toyota FJ40 Landcruisers, but not a good year for Landcruiser paint colors—they were all fairly ugly. Fast-forward to 2014, the last year for the modern FJ—some people liked them, but apparently not enough (ergo, the last year), but they had some great colors—like Voodoo Blue. I liked the color so much, I decided that if I did restore another FJ40, it was going to be Voodoo Blue (as a tribute of sorts). There were some other stipulations as well: 1.     Start with a rust free body, preferably from the southwest2.     Go newer than the last one (a 72 model). Better engine, a little more refined (sorry, refined doesn’t really apply to FJ40s)3.     Make it pretty (a suggestion from my friend and last buyer, Peter Klutt of Legendary Motor Car Company)4.     Make it capable of breaking an auction price record (ok, I did but I’m never, ever that lucky—my bidders are always too sober to pay the big money) I am a new car dealer…but my passion is restoring older vehicles—but not Model A’s, Packards, 57 Chevys and the like—just not my thing. I do vehicles like the original Ford Broncos, Landcruisers, Jeeps, Porsches, and……Volvo P1800’s? Yep. I just love the tailfins! I sold my last FJ40 to Peter Klutt. I also sold him a 67 Vette recently. He likes me, but he doesn’t pay top dollar…he sells for top dollar. This 78 FJ40 has been accepted by the Gooding Auction for the Amelia Island sale in March 2015. It takes a special vehicle to make that cut. I really don’t want to load it up and take it down there and sweat while all of the rich guys get drunk and buy Ferraris and such and then throw me a “bone” or sympathy bid, so here is your chance for a “world class” restoration of a 1978 FJ40. You will not find one done any better because I know these things. We completely disassembled this vehicle. Every paintable surface or component was media blasted and either power-coated (frame, suspension, differential housings, etc.) or painted with high quality base coat/clear coat (the underside paint is as good as the topside). My restorer was the body man and painter for Dale Earnhardt—yep. Not Jr….Senior…the NASCAR legend. This FJ was sold new in Colorado, but subsequently moved to Texas. I’m not saying there was NO rust, but the only place it existed was where the top shell meets the body (the narrow top lip of the left and right quarters). We did surgery and removed it. I have my engines rebuilt at an incredible engine shop located in our small town in East Tennessee. They rebuilt the engine completely and did a fantastic job putting it back together. Now, you folks who live in states with smog inspections, you are going to be disappointed, because I removed all of that crap. No smog pump and related carb/air/engine choking, satanic devices. It really cleaned up the engine bay and the vehicle runs like a buck on opening day of deer season. I installed new seat cover fabric, but retained the original door panels. I did replace the bed area floor—it was not due to rust. It just had a lot of dents in it due to normal use and I was not going to use any body filler in such a crucial area, so I cut it out and replaced it with a new panel. I did another radical thing—the vehicle had an aftermarket AC unit, which I removed and a rear heater. Those rear heaters are ugly. I kept it, but it is no longer a part of this beautiful landcruiser (Purists and cold climate users can just dress warmer).All emblems, stainless steel pieces, rubber, weatherstrips, maintenance items, etc are new—what else would one expect? I converted the electrical system to a modern fuse block, BUT, I refurbished the original wiring harness. The reason I did this was simple—it was in great shape, everything worked. On my last cruiser project, I used a “painless” wiring system—what a joke. It was excruciating!! And when I was done, it just looked so unnatural—with modern connectors, etc. I am very happy with the result. Finally, I lifted the vehicle just a tad (about 2 ½ inches). It just looks better that way and allows for larger tires (which are also brand-spanking new BF Goodrichs) This vehicle is just right and it drives as great as it looks.  If you want to see it live and in person, come on…I’ll show it to you and we’ll go eat at the Bean Barn.

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